Before You Do Anything
If your Wi-Fi drops every few minutes and comes back on its own, that's not a signal problem. That's Windows kicking your adapter to sleep. I've seen this on Dell, HP, and Lenovo laptops running both Windows 10 and Windows 11. The fix is usually the same. Let's go in order of least invasive to most.
Fix 1: 30 Seconds — Disable the 'Allow the computer to turn off this device' checkbox
Windows has a power-saving feature that puts your Wi-Fi adapter into a low-power state when it thinks the network isn't being used. The problem is it misjudges idle time. You'll be mid-video call and the adapter drops. Here's how to stop it:
- Press
Win + Xand select Device Manager. - Expand Network adapters.
- Right-click your Wi-Fi adapter (it usually has names like Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200, Realtek RTL8822CE, or Killer Wireless) and pick Properties.
- Go to the Power Management tab.
- Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.
- Hit OK and restart your PC.
That's the whole fix for maybe 70% of cases. The reason it works is simple: you're telling Windows that this device is never allowed to idle. It's not a hack, it's the actual setting Microsoft intended for you to tweak when the default behavior is too aggressive.
Test it by using your laptop on battery for an hour. If the connection holds, you're done.
Fix 2: 5 Minutes — Adjust Windows power plan and disable WLAN AutoOptimization
Still dropping? Then Windows is still interfering, just in a different way. The next suspect is the power plan's wireless adapter settings, plus a hidden feature called WLAN AutoOptimization that scans for better networks even when you're connected fine. That scanning causes micro-disconnects.
Change the power plan setting
- Open Control Panel → Power Options.
- Next to your active plan, click Change plan settings.
- Click Change advanced power settings.
- Scroll to Wireless Adapter Settings → Power Saving Mode.
- Set both On battery and Plugged in to Maximum Performance.
- Apply and close.
Disable WLAN AutoOptimization
This one requires a quick registry edit, but it's safe if you follow exactly. Open Command Prompt as administrator and run these two commands:
reg add HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\WlanSvc\Parameters /v EnableAutoOptimization /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f
netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=normal
The first command turns off the auto-optimization. The second resets TCP auto-tuning to normal, which often gets left in a broken state after a driver update. Reboot.
Why this matters: the scanner in Windows 10 versions 1903 and later actively probes nearby access points at intervals. If your router is on a crowded channel, that probe can trigger a temporary drop. Disabling it stops that behavior entirely. You won't lose the ability to find new networks — Windows still lists them in the tray.
Also: check your router's channel width
While you're in the 5-minute territory, log into your router (typically 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1) and set the 2.4GHz channel width to 20 MHz, not 40 MHz. On 5GHz, keep it on 80 MHz. I've fixed more stubborn drops this way than with any Windows setting.
Fix 3: 15+ Minutes — Reinstall or update the Wi-Fi driver
If you're still here, the problem is almost certainly the driver. Not the driver version you have, but the one Microsoft auto-installed. Windows Update often hands you a generic driver that's "compatible" but lacks the power management fixes from your adapter's manufacturer.
Get the correct driver
- Open Device Manager, right-click your Wi-Fi adapter, select Properties.
- Go to the Details tab and change the dropdown to Hardware IDs.
- Take the value that looks like
VEN_8086&DEV_2723— that's your vendor and device ID. - Search that ID on Google or the vendor's site (Intel, Realtek, etc.).
- Download the newest driver from the vendor site, not from Windows Update.
For example, if it's an Intel AX200, go to Intel's download center and grab the latest Wi-Fi driver. For Realtek, check the Realtek site or your laptop manufacturer's support page if it's a laptop. Don't bother with third-party driver updaters; they cause more problems than they solve.
Do a clean driver install
Don't just run the installer. That'll leave old files behind. Do it properly:
- Download the driver package and extract it to a folder (like
C:\drivers\wifi). - Open Device Manager, right-click the adapter, choose Uninstall device.
- Check the box that says Delete the driver software for this device.
- Restart your PC. Windows will install its generic driver automatically.
- Now go to Device Manager again, right-click the adapter, select Update driver → Browse my computer → point to that folder.
What you're doing here is forcing a clean install. The reason step 3 matters: Windows keeps a cached copy of the driver and will keep restoring it unless you delete it. If you skip that, the same buggy driver comes back.
After installation, reboot and test for a full day. Check the event viewer if you want confirmation — look under Windows Logs → System for event ID 5007 or 5015 from the WLAN-Adapter. Those mean the adapter reset itself, and if you still see them, the issue is deeper.
When to give up on these fixes
If you've done all three and the drops continue, the problem isn't Windows. It's your router or your adapter's hardware. Try connecting to a phone hotspot for 30 minutes. If that's stable, your home router's radio is failing. If that also drops, the laptop's Wi-Fi card is dying — a replacement card costs about $20 and takes 10 minutes to swap on most laptops.
One more thing: if you have a Killer Wi-Fi adapter, uninstall the Killer Control Center software entirely. It's notorious for killing connections. Windows can manage the adapter fine without it.